Pierpaolo Piccioli as a creative director cannot be put in one box. Every collection is different, and sure, he has signature designs that if you look at an outfit you’ll say, “that’s something by Pierpaolo.” But in the past few years he has been throwing curve balls in his style and design. His SS22 Haute Couture collection unveiled today in front of a very small physical audience at the Valentino salons at Place Vendôme was no different. Filled with signature pieces, it also comprised of unique creations by the renowned designer, who ushered in diversity- something that he’s been championing for a while.
Themed “Anadromy of Couture,” various shapes that are voluminous, pencil fitting, flowy, and baggy, to short and long lengths comprise the collection. Designing every day and wearable looks, he is making high fashion pertinent and wearable for the world, as he is not only designing style but designing the values of Valentino- and of fashion. And not just this, he is leading in making fashion inclusive. The pandemic has been filled with Pierpaolo ensuring that the House is diverse in the models they choose, and in creating for silhouettes of all sizes. Models in the show were comprised of various sizes. “Pierpaolo Piccioli imagined this Valentino Anatomy of Couture collection not on one single and idealized house model, but on a variety of women with different body frames and ages,” notes the House in a statement.
Opening the collection was American model Kristen McMenamy in a short, sultry, and fitted cocktail dress with a unique design of a semi, yet elegant revealing opening on the bodice, that was paired with thigh stockings and leather gloves. Other respectable seductive looks occupy the collection like a short orange dress paired with thigh high stockings and a loosely tailored earthen brown jacquard.
In the glamorous evening looks, Pierpaolo bought his highlighter pink back in the form of an off-the shoulder flowing shawl, matched with silver shimmery pants and a long spaghetti strapped blouse. And his elegant gowns from flowing green and off-the shoulder pieces, to white ensembles show off the female silhouette in various ways. Pierpaolo has brought in a touch of old Hollywood in the styles of the gowns that exude the shoulders with trains flowing behind them. His signature color palette along with fluorescent greens, sharp blues, and highlighter shades awaken the collection.
Men’s looks fill the collection, something that Pierpaolo mentioned he’d bring back a few seasons ago. Black pants are paired with a flamboyant white blouse. For the designer and his team, the body is the starting and ending point in the process of creating this collection. The House codes are expressed through feminine and masculine body frames. Many of the men’s looks are loose fitted, not so tailored, yet somehow highlighting the male frame through long coats or suit ensembles.
Pierpaolo has created many red-carpet pieces, and much of this collection is for the glamorous woman, the working woman, and the sultry, yet classy woman.