It’s good to keep things simple, and I am on a mission to demonstrate just how simple Chinese cooking can be, particularly the kind of food that Chinese families eat at home. We don’t, typically, gather around the kitchen table to pleat dumplings together – Crazy Rich Asians is no more a representation of how we cook than Notting Hill is of Notting Hill! The secret to much of our cooking is in the prep. Thereafter, most dishes come together very quickly and are surprisingly easy – at least the ones I cook are – so I invite you to surprise yourselves with these warming, comforting dishes.
Ginger and spring onion oil noodles (pictured above)
This is a kitchen staple, a Chinese version of aglio e olio that requires only eight easy-to-find ingredients, most of which you may already have in your cupboard. Spring onion oil doesn’t traditionally include ginger, but here I have merged two classics to combine some of my favourite flavours.
Prep 5 min
Cook 10 min
Serves 2
3-4 spring onions
3-4 slices fresh ginger, peeled
2 tbsp neutral cooking oil – I use sunflower
1 tbsp light soy sauce
1 tbsp dark soy sauce
½-1 tsp sugar, to taste
160g noodles – egg, wheat or even tagliolini!
½ tsp toasted sesame oil
Wash and dry the spring onions, trim off the roots, then cut into even lengths – I usually cut each onion into three or four pieces. Cut each piece lengthways into quarters, so you now have strips of spring onion. Cut the sliced ginger into thin strips.
Put a wok or large frying pan on a low-medium heat. Add the oil, spring onions and ginger, and fry gently, stirring, for about seven minutes, until the onions turn golden brown. Lift out the onions and ginger with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving the now fragrant oil in the pan.
Lower the heat, then add the light soy sauce, dark soy sauce and sugar, to taste, to the hot oil in the pan – note that it will bubble a bit.
Cook the noodles in a large pan of boiling water, according to the packet instructions, then drain and transfer them immediately to the soy sauce pan. Pour in the sesame oil, then toss to coat the noodles evenly.
Serve either as a sharing plate or in two bowls, garnished with the fried spring onions and ginger.
Braised pumpkin with minced pork
Pork and pumpkin are quite a common Chinese combination. That must have something to do with the wonderful pork fat, which makes just about everything taste better. You can make this with larger cuts, such as shoulder or ribs, but mince means this is the quickest of braises and perfect for a speedy weeknight supper. It has all the warmth and comfort of a stew without the associated consumption of time and power. You’ll need a wok (or large frying pan) with a lid.
Prep 15 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4 as part of a family-style dinner
200g pork mince – the fattier, the better
For the pork marinade
½ tsp sugar
A pinch of salt
1 tsp neutral oil – I use sunflower
¼ tsp white pepper
½ tbsp potato starch, or corn starch
½ tbsp light soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
For the pumpkin
2 tbsp neutral cooking oil
2-3 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed and minced
2-3 slices fresh ginger, peeled
2 tbsp Shaoxing wine, or dry sherry
2 tbsp light soy sauce
1 tbsp oyster sauce
Sugar, to taste
600-700g peeled and deseeded pumpkin, cut into largeish chunks
2⅓ tbsp potato starch slurry, or corn starch slurry – that is, 1 tsp starch mixed with 2 tbsp water
Chopped spring onions, to garnish
Put the pork mince in a bowl with all the marinade ingredients and a tablespoon of water, then mix well to combine and make sure all the flour gets fully absorbed.
Put the oil in a wok or large frying pan on a medium-high heat, add the garlic and ginger, and stir-fry for about a minute, just until they’re fragrant. Add the pork mince and stir-fry, breaking up any lumps with a spoon or spatula, for about five minutes, until cooked and golden all over. Stir in the Shaoxing wine, soy sauce and oyster sauce, then add sugar to taste and to balance the flavours.
Add the pumpkin to the mix, then pour over 500ml just-boiled water and bring to a vigorous bubble. Cover the wok, turn down the heat to a gentle simmer and leave to cook for 15-20 minutes, or until the pumpkin is softened to your liking.
Stir in the potato starch slurry, to thicken the cooking juices, then plate and garnish with the chopped spring onions. Serve with steamed rice.
