I TRAVELED to San Marcos La Laguna last month on the recommendation of my friend Tucker Robbins, a furniture designer and twinkly-eyed denizen of the occult world. Tucker first visited the town, on the shores of Guatemala’s Lake Atitlán, in 1989, when onion fields and avocado trees dominated what’s now the downtown. He returns periodically to soak up what he refers to as a “unique vortex of energies.”

Lake Atitlán, the deepest lake in Central America, has become a magnet for travelers on journeys of self-discovery. Many…



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